
How were blue jeans invented? It's a simple
story.Levi Strauss came to San
Francisco in 1853, at the age of twenty-four, to open a west coast
branch of his brothers' New York dry goods business. He had spent a
number of years learning the trade in New York after emigrating there
from his native Germany. He built his business into a very successful
operation over the next twenty years, making a name for himself not only
as a well-respected businessman, but as a local philanthropist as well.
One of Levi's many customers was a tailor
named Jacob Davis. Originally from Latvia, Jacob lived in Reno, Nevada,
and regularly purchased bolts of cloth from the wholesale house of Levi
Strauss & Co. Among Jacob's customers was a difficult man who kept
ripping the pockets of the pants that Jacob made for him. Jacob tried to
think of a way to strengthen the man's trousers, and one day hit upon
the idea of putting metal rivets at the points of strain, such as on the
pocket corners and at the base of the button fly.
These riveted pants were an instant hit
with Jacob's customers and he worried that someone might steal this
great idea. He decided he should apply for a patent on the process, but
didn't have the $68 that was required to file the papers. He needed a
business partner and he immediately thought of Levi Strauss.
Jacob wrote to Levi to suggest that the
two men hold the patent together. Levi, who was an astute businessman,
saw the potential for this new product and agreed to Jacob's proposal.
On May 20, 1873, the two men received patent #139,121 from the U.S.
Patent and Trademark Office. We consider that day to be the official
"birthday" of blue jeans.
Although denim pants had been around as
work wear for many years, it was the first use of rivets that created
what we now call jeans. "Waist overalls" was the traditional name for
work pants, which is what these first jeans were called. The word jeans
became more popular around 1960 when the baby-boom generation adopted
the term for its favorite type of pants.
Sometime during 1873, the first riveted
clothing was made and sold. (We're not sure of the exact date because we
lost all our historic records in the 1906 San Francisco earthquake and
fire.) Jacob Davis was in charge of manufacturing when Levi Strauss &
Co. opened its two San Francisco factories.
The denim for the riveted work pants came
from the Amoskeag Mill in Manchester, New Hampshire, a company known for
the quality of its fabrics. Within a very short time, all types of
working men were buying the innovative new pants and spreading the word
about their unrivaled durability. Around 1890, these pants were assigned
the number 501, which they still bear today.
Holding a patent on this process meant
that for nearly twenty years, Levi Strauss & Co. was the only company
allowed to make riveted clothing until the patent went into the public
domain around 1891. When the patent expired, dozens of garment
manufacturers began to imitate the original riveted clothing made
popular by Levi Strauss & Co.
So, the next time you see someone wearing
a pair of Levi's® 501® jeans, remember that these pants are a direct
descendant of the original pair made in 1873. And it was two visionary
immigrants, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis, who turned denim, thread and a
little metal into the most popular clothing product in the world - blue
jeans.
Lynn Downey, LS&CO. Historian |